Is fashion influenced by sub-cultures

Subcultures influence on fashion


A point on which many costume historians have concurred is that fashion, as it is currently understood-the propensity for continual change in clothing designs, colors, and tastes-is a relatively recent phenomenon in the history of humankind, virtually unknown before the fourteenth century and occurring only with the emergence of mercantile capitalism, the concomitant growth in global trade, and the rise of the medieval city. (Among the few exceptions are Tang Dynasty China and Heian Period Japan.) Other scholars have analyzed fashion as an aspect of a distinctively modern and Western consumer culture that first gained impetus in the eighteenth century, concurrent with the onset of the industrial revolution. Either way, to be "fashionable" in this sense of the term must not be understood as a natural, universal, or biologically given aspect of human behavior, but as a socially and historically specific condition. Fashion is, in other words, a cultural construction. Its very existence, form, and direction are dependent on the complex interplay of quite specific economic, political, and ideological forces.

If fashion is cultural then fashion subcultures are groups organized around or based upon certain features of costume, appearance, and adornment that render them distinctive enough to be recognized or defined as a subset of the wider culture. Depending on the group in question, subcultures may be loosely or tightly bounded; their collective identification may be self-attributed or imputed to them by outsiders. A particular gender, age span, social class, or ethnic identity may dominate membership. Subcultures often create their own distinctiveness by defining themselves in opposition to the "mainstream"-the accepted, prescribed, or prevailing fashion of the period. They may be either radical and forward-looking or reactionary and conservative in relation to the dominant mode of dressing: in either case, they aim toward exclusivity. Thus, while these subcultures may depend upon fashion for their very existence, their members may dispute the relevance of fashion (as both phenomenon and terminology) to their own identity, perhaps preferring to orient themselves around the idea of "style" or "anti-fashion." "Anti-fashion is that 'true chic' which used to be defined as the elegance that never draws attention to itself, the simplicity that is 'understated' … Anti-fashion attempts a timeless style, tries to get the essential element of change out of fashion altogether" (Wilson, pp. 183-184).

(LoveToKnow, 2017)

Is fashion influenced by sub-cultures 

Judging by designer pieces and high street must haves of 2012/2013 its obvious that the influences and compelling range of designs come from an array of youth subcultures. Which makes fashion what it is today.

From goths to rockers, punks to mods, subcultures have been influencing fashion design since the ’70s. The leather jacket. This statement clothing piece is a must-have for nearly all wardrobes this year. But where did this particular garment originate from? The days of Kurt Cobain, where grunge was the new cool, long messy hair was the perfect do and listening to metal music made you the ultimate heart throb?

Scruffy worn jeans are certainly staple pieces for most teenagers now; teamed with some holey knit wear and a pair of DocMartens there you have the ideal rocker look. Worn denim can be bought from most high street stores in addition to designers such as Donna Karan, Calvin Klein and of course Levi’s. That makes worn denim extremely accessible for all price ranges.

How about punk, one of the most distinguished subcultures. Some say punk was born in a small specialist boutique owned by the eccentric Vivienne Westwood. In an extreme reaction to the popular, neatly groomed style of the time mods – the punk look aimed to shock by combining mismatched patterns, ‘work’ boots, ripped denim and lots and lots of safety pins. Combined with a brightly- coloured starched mohawk and a bad attitude. There you have one of the most notorious subcultures of all time.

Even the most influences in today’s fashion are those from earlier times which are ultimately influenced by youth subcultures, its adamant that without these influential times we wouldn’t have the diverse and assorted styles of this decade. Youth subcultures have influenced fashion choices and fashion designs for many years and without them I don’t think fashion would be what it has become.

Thanks to youth subcultures individuals have been introduced to new and exciting fashion designers who portray all kinds of styles and designs, along with expressive clothing which influences the personalities of miscellaneous people from all walks of life.

(Whitlam, 2017)

^Punk

^Grunge 

Below are some quick videos just outlining the influence that sub-cultures has had on the fashion industry. 

References

LoveToKnow. (2017). Subcultures | LoveToKnow. [online] Available at: http://fashion-history.lovetoknow.com/fashion-history-eras/subcultures [Accessed 16 Nov. 2017].

Whitlam, H. (2017). Is fashion influenced by youth subcultures?. [online] Hannah tries to blog... Available at: https://hannahtriestoblog.wordpress.com/2013/02/16/is-fashion-influenced-by-youth-subcultures/ [Accessed 16 Nov. 2017].